Corpses arrive in a steady
stream. It’s business as usual for the priests. Surrounded by the dead seeking
moksha, they chant hymns as bells cling rhythmically. Smoke billows from five
pyres that burn simultaneously as logs of wood and garlands lay scattered. “My
relative just passed away. She was 89 years old. It was her last wish to be
cremated on the banks of Ma Ganga,” says Rajan Tiwari as she tries to shoo away
the dogs that are trying to get close to the body. “She is lucky that she got
cremated here,” she adds, standing on the banks of the Manikarnika Ghat,
Varanasi’s hub for cremations. For Hindus across the country, being cremated on
the banks of the Ganga and having their ashes immersed in the river is the
highway to heaven. It is considered the way to attain moksha and escaperebirth.